· 4 min read
Fleece vs French Terry: Which Fabric Should Your Hoodie Be Made From?
Fleece and French terry are the same family of knit: French terry has visible loops on the inside, and fleece is that same loopback fabric with the loops brushed into a soft, fuzzy pile. Fleece is warmer and softer; French terry is cooler, flatter and holds prints and washes more cleanly. Here is how to choose for hoodies, sweatshirts and joggers.
Updated
In short
Fleece and French terry are the same family of knit: French terry has visible loops on the inside, and fleece is that same loopback fabric with the loops brushed into a soft, fuzzy pile. Fleece is warmer and softer; French terry is cooler, flatter and holds prints and washes more cleanly. Here is how to choose for hoodies, sweatshirts and joggers.
The short answer: French terry (also called loopback) is a knit with a smooth face and small loops on the inside. Fleece is the same construction with those loops brushed until they form a soft, fuzzy pile. Brushed fleece is warmer, softer and loftier, and is the classic hoodie fabric. French terry is cooler, flatter and more stable, drapes better, and suits garment dyes and washes, year-round weights and structured streetwear. Neither is higher quality; they are different finishes for different jobs.
Fleece vs French terry at a glance
| Brushed fleece | French terry (loopback) | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Soft, fuzzy pile | Visible loops |
| Warmth | Warmer: the pile traps air | Cooler and more breathable |
| Hand-feel | Plush and cosy | Smooth, dry, towel-like inside |
| Drape | Lofty and rounded | Flatter, cleaner lines |
| Typical weight | 280–500 GSM | 250–450 GSM |
| Shedding and lint | Sheds a little in the first washes | Minimal |
| Garment dye and washes | Works, but the pile can mat | Takes dye and washes very evenly |
| Best for | Winter hoodies, cosy sweatshirts, classic sportswear | Year-round hoodies, vintage-wash pieces, joggers, premium streetwear |
How are the two fabrics made?
Both start as a three-thread knit: a face yarn, a binding yarn and a thicker loop yarn that sits on the back. Left as it is, that back is a field of small loops — French terry.
To make fleece, the looped side is passed over wire rollers that tease the loops open into loose fibres. That brushing creates the pile, adds thickness, and makes the fabric feel warmer for the same weight. It also means fleece and French terry of the same GSM do not feel the same: brushed fleece feels thicker, loopback feels denser.
Which is warmer?
Brushed fleece, at the same weight. The pile holds a layer of still air against the body. A 350 GSM fleece hoodie will feel warmer than a 350 GSM French terry one. For winter drops and cold climates, fleece is the natural choice; for spring, autumn, warm climates and gym wear, French terry is more comfortable.
Which looks more premium?
It depends on the look you want.
- Heavyweight loopback (400–450 GSM) has become the signature of premium streetwear: it hangs straight, holds a boxy shape and looks sharp at the cuffs and hem.
- Heavyweight brushed fleece (400–500 GSM) gives the thick, substantial, cosy feel that many customers associate with quality the moment they pick the garment up.
If your brand is about clean silhouettes and vintage washes, choose loopback. If it is about comfort and warmth, choose fleece.
100% cotton or a cotton-polyester blend?
| 100% cotton | 80/20 cotton-polyester | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Natural, breathable, matte | Slightly smoother, a little more spring |
| Shrinkage | Higher unless pre-shrunk | Lower |
| Pilling | Low with good yarn | Can pill more as the polyester fibres work loose |
| Durability and shape | Softens and relaxes with age | Holds shape and colour well |
| Garment dye | Dyes evenly | Polyester does not take cotton dyes, giving a heathered effect |
| Price | Slightly higher | Slightly lower |
Choose 100% cotton for garment-dyed and washed pieces and for a premium natural feel. Choose 80/20 for teamwear, uniforms and merchandise that will be washed hard and often.
How much do they shrink?
Untreated cotton knits commonly shrink 3–5% in length in the first washes. That is managed in two ways: the fabric is pre-shrunk or compacted before cutting, and the pattern includes an allowance. Ask your manufacturer which applies, and wash-test the sample before you approve it: measure it, wash and dry it the way your customers will, and measure again.
Which is better for printing and embroidery?
- Screen printing and puff print — both fabrics print well. Loopback's flatter, more stable face gives slightly crisper edges on fine detail.
- Embroidery — both work. Heavier weights of either support dense embroidery without puckering.
- Garment dye, acid wash, enzyme wash — loopback takes these most evenly.
- DTF and DTG — both print on the smooth face; see DTF vs DTG vs screen printing.
Which should you choose?
| If you are making… | Choose |
|---|---|
| A winter hoodie or a team hoodie for outdoor training | Brushed fleece, 320–400 GSM |
| A boxy, heavyweight streetwear hoodie | Loopback or fleece, 400–500 GSM |
| A vintage-wash or garment-dyed sweatshirt | 100% cotton loopback |
| Joggers and shorts | Loopback, 300–380 GSM |
| A year-round or warm-climate hoodie | Loopback, 280–330 GSM |
| Hard-wearing club or staff hoodies | 80/20 brushed fleece |
Getting both to compare
SeamFoundry makes custom hoodies and sweatshirts from 10 pieces in 300–500 GSM fleece, brushed or loopback, in cotton or 80/20, and trousers and joggers from 10 pieces. If you cannot decide, say so in your quote request: your sample can be made in the fabric you are leaning towards, with swatches of the alternative. If you are launching a label, the streetwear brand guide covers the rest of the range.
